Every chef worth his salt knows that high-quality ingredients are the unsung heroes of exceptional cuisine. And if there’s a destination that exemplifies this truth, it’s New Zealand. This corner of the world is not just about otherworldly landscapes and outdoor adventures; it’s quickly becoming a hotbed for dining, as Chef Ton Tassanakajohn, discovered on a recent trip down under.
Chef Ton, the unofficial poster boy of Thai cuisine and the genius behind the Michelin-starred Nusara and Le Du—crowned the Best Restaurant in Asia for 2023 by Asia’s 50 Best—has been globe-trotting for the past year, cooking with top chefs and gathering culinary inspiration. When T+L asked the chef which of the 20-plus countries he’s been to this year left the biggest impression, he didn’t hesitate.
“My trip to New Zealand was a revelation,” said Ton. “The food is unlike anything I’ve encountered. It’s so incredibly fresh and pure. Every dish feels like a celebration of the land.”
The rising culinary scene in New Zealand is catching the eyes of top chefs and food critics alike. It’s a land where freshness and sustainability aren’t just qualities—they are a way of life. Perhaps no restaurant better portrays this than Amisfield in Queenstown. Helmed by Chef Vaughan Mabee, who often hunts for the animal protein served at the restaurant himself, Amisfield runs on the intention to connect diners back to where the food came from. Every dish is striking – baby paua (abalone), sea tulips, ivory butterfish tiled with tiny silver whitebait— and hyperlocal.
“Amisfield blew my mind,” recalls Chef Ton. “Chef Vaughan serves a beak made of duck consommé emulsified with smoked duck fat, filled with sweet wild elderberry jam, and the head is stuffed with savory duck rillettes flavored with duck liver. It looks like a real duck and he serves it by plucking it off the body of a taxidermized body.”
This dedication to the land and its produce is a common thread throughout New Zealand’s dining landscape. Chefs and restaurateurs here are not just focused on cooking with fresh ingredients but are deeply attuned to the environment from which these ingredients come. “In Thailand, we are all about flavor. But in New Zealand, the culinary mindset is profoundly connected to the land,” Chef Ton observes. “There’s a holistic approach to food that makes every meal feel like a tribute to the natural world.”
This dedication extends beyond restaurants and into local food culture. During his visit, Chef Ton met Nadia Lim, a prominent figure in New Zealand’s food movement, while exploring her farm shop, Royalburn Farm Shop, in Arrowtown. “Nadia explained how the culinary culture here is about more than just fresh produce; it’s about a comprehensive understanding of where that produce comes from and how it fits into the larger environment, says Chef. “For the products that didn’t come from her farm down the road, she practically knew every producer of every brand in the shop by name.”
Nadia Lim’s approach reflects the overarching ethos in New Zealand’s food scene. “The food culture here is incredibly nuanced,” Chef Ton observed. “It’s both comforting and distinct, offering a unique blend of familiar flavors with a fresh twist.”
For those itching to dive into New Zealand’s culinary delights, Chef Ton’s experience serves as a savory roadmap. From its breathtaking landscapes to its rising star chefs, New Zealand is not just a feast for the eyes but a revelation for the palate. If the rest of the world is ready to catch on, this island nation is poised to become a global culinary sensation.
“New Zealand might be the most beautiful place I’ve ever been…made that much better by the absurdly flavorful tomato I ate right off the vine and the glass of Pinot post-helicopter tour.” says the chef. “It’s one of the few places I can honestly say I’d really want to return to time and time again.”
Travel New Zealand Like Chef Ton:
Eat
Rāta: Queenstown’s Rata is where the stunning alpine scenery meets inventive New Zealand fare, offering a menu that’s as impressive as the surrounding landscape.
Gibbston Valley Winery & Restaurant: At Central Otago’s Gibbston Valley, the fusion of award-winning wines and gourmet cuisine provides a quintessential taste of the region’s rich terroir and culinary craftsmanship.
Amisfield Restaurant and Cellar Door: Amisfield excels in transforming seasonal, locally-sourced ingredients into unforgettable dishes, all while showcasing the best of New Zealand’s viticulture. Fine-dining like New Zealand’s never seen it.
Mora Wines & Kitchen by Artisan: Mora Wines & Kitchen in Lake Hayes marries the charm of a vineyard setting with a menu of fresh, locally-inspired dishes, perfectly complemented by local wines.
Sherwood Restaurant: In the heart of Queenstown, Sherwood Restaurant is a beacon of sustainable dining, offering a menu that’s both eco-friendly and exquisitely crafted from the freshest local ingredients.
Mudbrick Vineyard and Restaurant: On Waiheke Island, Mudbrick Vineyard pairs its stunning panoramic views of Hauraki Gulf back to Auckland city with beautiful dishes and top-tier wines
Ahi: Auckland’s Ahi presents a contemporary twist on New Zealand’s culinary traditions, where every dish is a modern interpretation of local flavors, served in a stylish, urban setting by personable staff.
Do
Walter Peak Eco Experience: Tour Walter Peak Station’s farm, which feeds hundreds of guests at their restaurant every day, with their horticulturalists then plant a tree on the hillside. These activities connect you to local wildlife and conservation in a truly engaging way.
Scenic Flight with Heliworks Queenstown: Heliworks Queenstown gives you a bird’s-eye view of the South Island’s most jaw-dropping landscapes. Land on a glacier for unmatched photo ops.
Royalburn Farm Shop: Local produce and gourmet delights fill Nadia Lim’s farmshop, all curated with the same passion and attention to quality that she brings to her other culinary ventures.
Shotover Jet Boating: Jetboating is the high-speed thrill ride that takes you barreling through Queenstown’s Shotover River’s wild rivers and dramatic canyons, delivering adrenaline-pumping excitement and jaw-dropping views in one go.
The Big Foody Food Tours: Discover Auckland by the bite with this bespoke tour that’ll take you everywhere from the Sunday farmers market to one of the most hard-to-book tables in the city.
Ananda Tours to Waiheke Island: Enjoy fresh oysters, Waiheke olive oil and other locally-produced speciality foods and wines at some of the island’s most loved restaurants and vineyards with a guide who intimately knows the best of Waiheke.
Visit NewZealand.com to start planning your trip.
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